Tuesday, September 14, 2010

The Hike From *&%#....Chippewa Harbor to Moskey Basin

After being treated to a beautiful Isle Royal sunrise and filling up the 'ol tank with pancakes and sausage, I eagerly awaited today's adventure on the MV Sandy. The scheduled route was to take us to the north side of the island to McCargoe Cove...something I was really
looking forward to. However, Mother Nature was still wanting to wreck havoc with the canoe and kayak enthusiasts and Captain Ron assured all 6 hikers that if we went to the north shore it would be a rough ride and there may not be enough room at the rail for all of us. So, we all agreed to follow his suggestion and chart a course to Chippewa Harbor. Sure....but he warned us it would be a longer hike as he would meet us at Moskey Basin. About a 6 mile hike he said....so, I went back to the room to grab more snacks, a wider brimmed hat, rain gear and more water. I figured 3 liters would be plenty. Here we are approaching the inlet of Chippewa Harbor after about an hour of battling some choppy 3 to 4 footers.

Once again I asked Captain Ron if he was sure we would be ok and make it....perhaps I should take the easy way out and stay on the boat I thought...but that would defeat my purpose of going to Isle Royale to hike and experience the back country. I assured him I would keep on pace and not dilly-dally and I would do my best to meet him at the dock in Moskey Basin at 4:30....but implored him to wait if I got behind....I REALLY wasn't prepared to be stranded! He did assure us that Derek would meet us at Lake Richie and escort us the last 2 miles....and if necessary he would search further down the trail...YIKES! I was determined not to be left in the back with the others miles ahead...I would just have to keep up with them! I took one last look at Chippewa Harbor and said a quick prayer to God to just please get me to Moskey Basin before 4:30! And preferably in one piece!
The older couple left their teenager on the boat with Captain Ron (he wasn't really into hiking) and they really set a fast pace....I couldn't keep up. On the way over I was chatting with Tom from Escanaba and Dale from Pennsylvannia. They were behind me and I was alone in the middle....at least if something happened they would stumble across me...maybe...After a few short minutes they caught up to me and we stayed on the same pace..for a few minutes anyway. We hiked quitely as we were determined to see a moose! or wolf. Pretty soon Tom decided to leave Dale and I in the dust...here he is disappearing into the woods. We really thought he was just trying to see what was up ahead...but he never came back to report! Which kind of worried me because Dale had his lunch and water! Lake Richie (the designated lunch spot) was 4.3 miles away!
So Dale and I trudged on...encouraging each other....after stumbling into him a few times (because I was too busy looking for wildlife and not watching where I was going) I asked if I could lead. At least this way I wouldn't annoy him from continuously falling into him...if there was no one in front of me if I fell at least I
wouldn't hurt anyone else! And stumble I did....but when you see the
terrain you will immediately understand! We took frequent but short rest breaks to catch our breath and escape the searing heat of the sun, usually in shady areas. On one of these breaks I saw this White Admiral butterfly and welcomed a little longer rest. And there were thimbleberries also all along the way....I did leave some for those behind me!

I'm not really sure what kind of mushroom this was, "x" marks the spot? Again in one of those lovely shaded areas I looked forward to between the bursts of blistering heat when hiking on the rock!




This is the fruit of the Rosy Twisted-stalk. The dangly purple flowers would have bloomed in June leaving the fruit. Apparently the Ojibwa used this plant to treat coughs!




Another berry I frequently saw was
this one, the Dewberry. Unfortunately it was only after I got home and was trying to identify plants in my photos I learned that it is edible! Rats! Island Life says that its even sweeter! Now I need to go back to sample this one!



After an hour or so on the rugged trail we spotted a canoe portage sign and a lake! "This is it...we're here" screamed Dale (or something to that effect). Trying not to disappoint him I told him that it couldn't be as there was no way I could have walked 4 miles in only 2 hours on this terrain. Just not possible given my last few ventures. I took out my map and compass (something no one else in the group had...Yikes! or a 1st aid kit...I guess its the Girl Scout/packrat in me) and told him we were probably at the southern end of Lake Richie...but its not like there are mileage signs anywhere. I would later find out in a guide book that the trail section that we had just traversed was considered difficult.strenuous....I can vouch that it was. Seriously....and people portage (carry over their head) their canoes over this?! This island needs a psychiatrist! I began to think everyone here including myself needed their head examined for even attempting such difficulties! And yes, the rocky area to the left is not a rock next to the trail...it IS THE TRAIL! My mood was quickly going to pot....I was WAY past whiny! But...I had to keep my spirits up on the outside to rally Dale and the others...if we ever found them! We took advantage of a shady spot for a snack and water break, but I was afraid of sitting too long as I was afraid of my joints seizing up!

More sunny/blazing hot sections awaited us, the elevated wooden walkways at least broke up the monotony and provided a nice walking surface, no tripping here :-) Another hourish later Tom came down the trail to meet us...he'd already been at Lake Richie for a while...and the folks from Iowa approached us from behind! They took a small offshoot at the beginning to Lake Mason and had been behind us all the time....and to think I had been worried. Tom assured us we only had a little bit further to go! And NO ONE had seen a wolf or a moose...and we WERE QUIET! Although once in the brush we did hear something fairly large break a branch....but not heavy enough to be a moose, perhaps a wolf? or maybe even a fox....


FINALLY! I had made it the 4.3 miles to the Lake Richie trailhead! I needed a "I made it" photo! Derek from the boat made it also about the same time too. So all 7 of us now meandered 1/4 mile down to the shore of Lake Richie for lunch!









I guess I was expecting something more scenic or at least a lake full of loons or other waterfowl. But, hey, I had made it 2/3 of the way and was pretty sure I wouldn't be left out in the wilderness by myself!



Again, feeling the need to get up and move, I again took up the middle section, the Iowans had already left, and the 3 guys were still at the lake.







After a few minutes I came across these 3 portaging their canoe to Lake Richie...their 2 buddies had arrived just before I left with theirs. Now from here to Moskey Basin (where they came from) is 2.1 miles! I can't even fathom doing this! They're pretty hard core in my book!

I'm not really sure what this is that I spotted on one of the raised trails...maybe Joe-pye weed but I'm not positive.








At one resting spot I rested long enough for the 3 guys to catch up to me...as we were resting Rolf and Candy happened along...they were out in search of a nearby moose carcass! Rolf easily cruised ahead of us and Candy somehow got caught in between all of us...sensing she was MUCH more fit than any of us, I moved off the trail and shouted back for her to pass us if she liked.....she did....and within a minute she too was out of site. I think Isle Royale would be a great place to drop someone like me off for a few weeks in the back country, the hike out alone would tone and define muscles and burn off unwanted pounds (especially in the heat of summer!). And let me tell you...Rolf and Candy...didn't even break a sweat or gasp for air! Jeesh....I guess that means I better shape up, but at least I wasn't gasping for air...just slow and sweaty (and a little crabby).

So you've heard me gripe and complain about the terrain...well...here's some close ups! Today, at least 50% of the trail was like this or worse, 40% was shaded but tree roots and small embedded rocks criss-crossed the trail, and maybe 10% was board crossings or nice dirt paths. Captain Ron told us
that 1 mile here is like 2 to 2 & 1/2 miles normal places. Funny he forgot to mention that little fact BEFORE I left the boat and started on the trail. But realistically, if he would have said that I would have gave up before I started and stayed on the boat. So, I'm glad he saved that tidbit for later!


And as I walk through the valley of the ferns....


I was alone again...and even though there are no trail intersections, I was still worried about becoming lost! Every 15 minutes I would stop for water and check my map and compass. Then....I would hear the guys behind me....a welcome sound indeed!


This was my first plank over a visible body of water under it...I was super careful not to stumble here! My Minolta is not so fond of water!






...but I did pause to look at the Yellow Pond-Lilies!








YAY! I was on the right path and I started to feel an energy surge now knowing that I was 0.2 miles from the MV Sandy and I had almost 20 minutes to spare! I did a little happy dance to celebrate!









One more marshy area to cross....









At last! The END! I HAD REACHED THE END!!! And Captain Ron hadn't left!








The Sandy and Captain Ron eagerly awaited us 4 stragglers....I was never so excited to see a boat in my life!








Even though I was weary and my joints were screaming...I HAD to stop and have Tom take a victory picture for me. The 6 mileish hike, was actually 6.9 miles and even though I have done 7+ miles in a day before...this was by far THE most challanging hike I have done simply due to the terrain and the isolation. Even though I was beat I will never forget the great feeling of accomplishment I felt at that moment (and still do!)! I DID IT!!!!!!!!!

Moskey Basin was a pretty area and I had wished that I could have explored it more.....another time.....perhaps when I can be considered "hard-core" and can sleep under the stars in a tent in the wildnerness and trek though it for days on end....someday I'll be back....



But for now....I put my feet up and sat on the stern so that the fresh breeze might dry off some of the sweat.









Even the bell bouy tolled to celebrate my accomplishment! All the heat, sweat and muscle & joint aches were worth this feeling that was in my heart!


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