Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Mission: Mackinac Bridge Walk...The Ride Back

After receiving my certificate and get it stamped, I headed through town to locate my transportation back to St. Ignace. And believe it or not, I only stopped in one store! Signage here, again, was very clear. I will say that I found it to be a very organized event!






After paying $5 to board the bus, I figured it
would be a quick 15 minute trip back across. Not so much. And I thought it was a bit humorous that there needed to be a sign warning motorists that there was droves of people walking in their direction......











...like it wasn't obvious??!! It was now, well after 10am, and they had limited the walkers to just one lane on the bridge as opposed to two lanes a few hours earlier. The following day it was reported that approximately 36,000 people had completed the walk. And from what I understand, that is lower than average!
 As I looked out the bus window, I searched the crowd for my friend, Sharon. Impossible, it would be easier to find Waldo! But it was interesting, nonetheless. Some folks waved with enthusiasm, most just kept moving forward.
I noticed this young man was NOT going to be denied his chance at walking on the grate just because he got a late start. A National Guardsman quickly approached him and strongly suggested that he continue on the pavement instead.


 And the crowds were seemingly endless! It was now just a few minutes before 11 am!
 One of the last folks called themselves "trolls". I figured it to be a local thing. I finally got off the bus and made it to my car by 11:30, I was certainly glad that I had arranged for a late checkout! I hadn't expected the ride back to take nearly as long as it did.
After a hurried bite to eat, I headed south on I 75 crossing the Mackinac Bridge for the third time that day and witnessed the last of the last just beginning their trek.


MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Paddle...Les Cheneaux Islands

Feeling like the previous days sunrise couldn't be beaten, I decided to rest up and sleep in a bit, especially since the following day would be a VERY early one. After breakfast, I packed my lunch and gathered all of my paraphernalia that I would need until evening, then headed north on I 75 once again toward Hessel.

Les Cheneaux (meaning the channels in French) consists of 36 main islands that stretch across about 12 miles of shoreline near Hessel and Cedarville. There are several other smaller islands in addition to these 36 though.

I arrived early and at 10am and met guide Jay, as well as a family of 5 from Battle Creek who happened to pop in and asked if they could join us on the paddle, but requested only a few hours verses 7. I'm really not sure why everyone felt like they needed my approval, I really didn't care where we paddled, as long as I got out on the water all day I was a happy camper! So, 2 tandems and an additional single kayak and more gear was loaded onto the truck and away we went to the boat launch in Cedarville.

After orientation and stretching, we all were loaded into our respective kayaks and paddled off across the bay. It was perfect weather, a little overcast and not too hot, with just some small waves. The power boaters also thought it was a great day to be out on the water as I saw at least 6 beautiful wooden Chris Craft's! Seemed a perfect environment for them. Many of the islands of Les Cheneaux are populated with summer homes, only a few hardy soles stay for the winter here as only 2 of the islands are accessible by car. So, nearly everyone has a boat of some sort and a lovely boat house to go along with it. And quite a few of those boat houses were pretty spiffy in their own right!

Battle Creekers' Beverly and daughter Maria heading toward a point on one of the islands.
Then it was back across the open water again to start heading back to shore. The Battle Creekers' had only signed up for a 1/2 day tour as they needed to get back on the road and make it home by this evening.
But their departure would have to wait just a few more minutes, I spotted 16 Red Breasted Mergansers and I told Jay to keep going and that I would catch up, but I needed to have a "nature moment" first! They were pretty quick! If my paddling/turning skills were better, of if my kayak would have had a rudder, I would have been able to catch them and join their group. But they kept heading west and my group was heading east, so I had to part ways and quickly catch up to everyone else.
After a quick lunch Jay and I loaded the 3 kayaks onto the trailer and hopped back into to ours and set off across the bay once again, but instead of heading west, we veered off to the east. There wasn't a ton of wildlife today, so we enjoyed some great conversation about a multitude of topics. I practiced my skills and did get a little brave and tried some new maneuvers, but was still a bit hesitant to see how far I could lean before going for a swim. Not that I mind swimming, but I really didn't want to put all that effort into figuring out which of the 2 dozen ways I can reenter a kayak from water over my head. Especially since I've slacked off, for several months, in doing pushups to build upper body strength. One little factoid I found interesting, is that kayaking is one of the best exercises that you can do, as it utilizes so many of your core muscles, and if you paddle properly, your legs as well as your upper body and torso. In fact, Jay stated that he kayaks 12 months out of the year. Now, dragging your gear a mile offshore in the middle of winter to find open water and the risks that that would bring are not really appealing to me. But, with proper experience and gear, it might be pretty enjoyable and scenic to paddle during the ice breakup with icebergs floating all around you. But, with swift currents and large ice floes I don't think this is something that I should try just yet...but someday.
Here' we are paddling up to Government Island. There's a couple of campgrounds on the island, of course, you need to get yourself and your gear here by kayak, canoe or boat. But, it's rather nice and would consider camping here, if I had camping equipment that is...someday I will. Another highlight is straight ahead in this photo, the second tallest tree from the right that is topped, has a huge Osprey nest!
Here's a close up of the nest (as good as I can get with my water camera, I would never trust my Nikon on the water). As I sat there looking at the nest, one of it's residents flew into a nearby tree! And later, paddling back, the osprey flew overhead and off toward another island.

Once ashore on Government Island, Jay led me on a short little hike where we saw a few wildflowers, lichen and this interesting tree! If memory serves me correctly, I think it was a white cedar. It was quite tall and interesting and I just couldn't resist temptation......

so, I climbed it! Well, not too far. I got as high as I could as the large branches could support me. I would have gone higher if the large branches would have continued. It brought back many happy childhood memories of climbing trees (I was able to go much higher back then) and then jumping out of them 15-20 feet off of the ground! I figured being over 40 I hadn't better tempt fate too much, so I stood back up and very carefully went back down the same route I had taken up. I think guide Jay was pretty surprised to see me swiftly ambling up the tree without giving it a second thought. I bet the next time he's back on Government Island by himself that he climbs it!
So, after our little nature hike, Jay determined that we had better start heading back to Cedarville. A pontoon boat had sought refuge at the same beach that we had left our kayaks and advised us to hold up a few minutes as a squall was coming through. Jay asked how I felt about kayaking in inclement weather and I told him it really didn't bother me. I had a spray skirt and all so it's not like the kayak would fill with water and I felt secure and not fatigued. But the lady in the pontoon boat INSISTED that before we left that we wade out 10-20 feet so we could see beyond the trees....
Um, were glad we did! About 2 minutes later the wind picked up, visibility dropped and the rain was blowing sideways! Jay threw me some sort of spray skirt to put on that had a jacket and hood attached and he grabbed his portable shelter-in-a-bag and ran for the trees to set it up. I just stood there and watched the storm blow by. I'm sure at the first sign of thunder or lightning that I would have been running for that shelter though! In less than 5 minutes the squall had passed and we loaded back into the kayaks (after draining the water out) and started the paddle back.

Here's Jay near Government Island after the squall. We made it to shore about 5pm, after about 6 total miles of paddling for the day. It was a fantastic adventure and I hope to get back up there next year and take some lessons to improve my skill set and learn how to do Eskimo rolls! Yipee!

Saturday, September 17, 2011

St. Ignace Fireworks

 After an evening paddle in Les Cheneaux Islands, I headed back to my hotel in St. Ignace and arrived just in time to unload, grab my tripod and Nikon and head down to the waters edge to view fireworks! I didn't even learn of the fireworks until a few days before I left and was a nice surprise! I didn't have to fight the crowds or find a parking spot either, I just meandered down to the waters edge in front of the hotel where I had viewed the sunrise in silence earlier in the day.
I really couldn't see so well in the dark, but I think
there was at least a dozen plus folks down there, like me, seated in the standard white plastic lawn chairs that the hotel provided. After setting up my camera, I sat down hoping to enjoy some silence and sounds of nature before the show started. However, the calming sounds of the water gently meeting the rocks and the shore was interrupted by constant chatter. Not conversation, chatter. It's ok to have silence, and let nature speak to you. I know, I know, y'all are having a hard time believing that I, of all people, are saying this. Perhaps silence and the longing for nature's soothing sounds comes with age, either that or it's a symptom of being overwhelmed with noise
 pollution and being audiologically overstimulated.  But, it is a free country and obviously I was in the minority, so, I did my best to block all of that out and meditate.

Soon enough, BANG! The fireworks began to explode overhead, sending echos of the blast in all directions.  Oddly enough, the chatter stopped, but was never replaced by the typical oooooh's and ahhhh's and o's. I found that rather strange, especially with all the chatterboxes present.
The fireworks lasted maybe 10-15 minutes at the most  and they were actually pretty darn good.


I'm still getting used to my new camera, and these are not by any stretch, the best firework photos  have taken, but it was a good learning experience and for about half of the display, I just sat there and looked up at the heavens, like everyone else, and took it all in.










Eventually, the pyrotechnic supplies were exhausted and everyone got up and left. I pondered sitting down there for a while to listed to the waves again, but a few raindrops began to fall. Since my Nikon is not so fond of water, I decided it would be best to call it a night as well and rest up for Sunday's outing.

Paddling In Les Cheneaux Islands at Dusk

This day was the best of days...and the worst of days. It started off great with a spectacular red sunrise! Too good to be true! It was. My full day paddle in Les Cheneaux Islands was cancelled because of inclement weather.It was too late to activate Plan B and drive a few hours north to go hiking in Tahquamenon Falls, so I decided to wing it and attempt to be spontaneous. After visiting a museum in St. Ignace, I headed north on I 75 with intentions of going to the Soo (that would be Sault Ste. Marie to all you non-Michiganders), to do what I wasn't sure, but it's been 15-20 years since I'd been there so why not.

At some point in time relatively early in the drive, I changed my mind and decided to turn off and go
 east on 134 towards Drummond Island. How's that  for spontaneous! It was a pretty crummy day, I pulled over at several turnouts to hike on the beach for a mileish,  I was certainly glad I had brought along my wellies and rain gear! I eventually reached the town of De Tour,
 and believeyoume, there wasn't anything exciting going on there either. I thought about waiting in line to take the  ferry to Drummond Island, but was unsure of what I would  do there, it was still pretty gloomy. So, I headed back the way that I came.

When I neared Hessel, I decided to go in and talk to Jessie at Woods & Water EcoTours. The sky was getting a little brighter and I asked if there might be a possibility of getting out on the water tonight for sunset. She was very doubtful of the possibility of a picturesque sunset, but I informed her that I really didn't care about the conditions, I just wanted to get out on the water and paddle as that is what a big part of my "wilderness weekend" was about. Thankfully, guide Tim agreed to take me out for a few hours after he was finished giving a lesson to a couple! YAY! So, I hopped back in the Durango and headed back to St. Ignace to change my clothes for the 4th time that day. Really, I don't think I have had that many outfitting changes since I was a teenager on dance recital day!

After a quick dinner I was back in my original
 gear I had on 8 hours earlier and headed back
up to Hessel. As you can see, there was not going to be a "sunset" but the water was calm and I really did not care, I was going OUT!







It had been over a year since my first experience in a single kayak, and those first few moments of "tipiness" definitely had me worried. The air temperature was a little on the chilly side and I did not have a wet suit on, I had visions of me going for a swim. But I soon got into a groove, practicing strokes correctly and soon the wobbles were gone. It was just Tim, his girlfriend and I  so we enjoyed some nice conversation while paddling, I usually like to have silence on sunset paddles as there is something quite serene about being silent on the water and the only noise is the sound of small drips falling from your paddle. But he was an interesting fellow and I enjoyed hearing of his experiences on the water.
After a nice paddle through a marsh and seeing a few Red Breasted Mergansers and 2 Sandhill Cranes flying overhead, we decided to turn around and head back into shore.
Here's guide Tim demonstrating some bracing techniques, while it would have been an opportune time to get some instruction and to practice, I really didn't feel like going for an unexpected swim that night, especially with a 30+ minute drive back to St. Ignace with no dry clothes! I nearly went for a dip upon exiting though, it was explained that you have to be fast and not dilly dally. I vowed to practice that on tomorrow's outing after he managed to grab my arm to keep me from doing a face plant into the rocks below the water on the shoreline!

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Red Sky In The Morning.....

After a blissful nights sleep I hapened to open one eye about 6:30 am and saw the sky glowing one of the most beautiful hues I had ever seen. I hadn't even thought about setting the alarm in hopes of wittnessing such a spectacular sunrise! I flew out of bed, flicked on the light, grabbed my camera and nearly ran out of my hotel room in my PJ's! I'm glad I was awake enough to think this over quickly and I hurridly put yesterday's clothes on, really what did it take 10 seconds? I know there was no one else out there or even being close to stirring, but I'm sure the other guests would prefer not to see me wearing PJ's.

I quickly ran down to the waterfront, and just stared in amazement at the spectacular show that was unfolding before me. In my rush, I had forgotten my polarizing filter, but I was so drawn by the changing hues that I just couldn't bear to turn my back and walk away. I could just tell that this sunrise was going to be special, perhaps even more so than the one I witnessed atop Cadillac Mountain in Maine.

I may have been the only person stirring, but it was very evident that the waterfowl had been up for quite a while. The ducks and geese and gulls, were quitely chatting and this year's offspring were lining up following the leader and circling about, waiting for a little bit more light to appear before heading out.

It was truely a marvelous nature moment, with the only sound being the quiet mutterings of the birds, and a very faint breeze that put just a small wrinkle in the otherwise glass calm waters of Lake Huron.


As the sun began its ascent from the horizon, I noticed that I was no longer alone. A few others had their cameras but were respectful of the peacefullness that accompanies a sunrise and no one spoke a word. I gathered that they too, preferred soltitude and quiet contemplation at sunrises and sunsets. Not that there is anything wrong with sharing these magical moments with others, but for me, its...just one of those special moments that soothes my soul and brings me peace. Perhaps if everyone had this philosophy and was able to appreciate such beauty the world would be a much more serene place.

I kept watching the horizon in constant amazement, wondering, really can life get any better than this? It's certainly a good thing that I don't see sunrises of this caliber every day, because I'd be constantly in lala land and would come up with some crazy idea to forgo any responsibilities I have and move to the wilderness to witness spectacular moments sich as this one everyday for the rest of my life.

As the sun rose higher and higher into the sky, the clouds seemed to be drawn to the sun and instead of becoming lighter, it seemed to grow darker instead, perhaps a sign of inclement weather approaching. Red sky at night, sailor's delight, red sky in the morning, sailors take warning was a phrase that had been drilled into my head since childhood.  

And all too soon, the sun was rising quickly only to hide behind the thick layer of coulds that had coalesced to form a giant quilt to sheild the Earth from the sun's warming rays. It seemed so odd to have such thick cloud cover when less than 8 hours prior the night sky was crystal clear enough  to see millions of stars and planets, minus of course the two "shooting stars" that I witnessed.
So go on, all of you, get up early and go to a quiet place, respect the silence of the sunrise and may you be blessed with the beautiful memory of a nature moment that you will trreasure for a lifetime!



Monday, September 12, 2011

Father Marquette National Memorial

Since it was only 2pm and I had no pressing plans for the rest of the day, I decided to make a stop at St. Ignace Straits State Park to visit the Father Marquette National Memorial. 

Unfortunately a fire destroyed the museum in 2000 and all that remains is the memorial, which had some nice displays, maps and benches, and some nature trails.

Jacques Marquette was born in Laon, France in 1637 into a well-to-do family. After completing his education, he became a Jesuit missionary and in 1666 arrived in present day St. Ignace, Michigan and founded his first mission to minister to the Native Americans.  Several years later in 1673, he along with Louis Jolliet set out in canoes to explore and map Lake Michigan and the Mississippi River ending at the junction on the Arkansas and Mississippi Rivers before returning northward. This exploration proved invaluable to the French as it helped to expand the fur trade deeper into Indian Territory.    
 Father Marquette also founded missions in Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan  and in Kalkaska, Illinois and was well respected among the natives.







In 1677, two years after his death, his bones were returned to the mission in St. Ignace. Eventually the Jesuits abandoned the mission and burned it
 to the ground. Two hundred years later in 1877
,  the site  of the mission and most likely the
 burial spot  of Father Jacques Marquette
was discovered next to a church in the middle
of present day St. Ignace, and was marked off.





Saturday, September 10, 2011

On the Road Again!

I decided to take advantage of a 5 day weekend and get away for a few days for a "wilderness weekend". Well, I suppose I wasn't THAT far into the wilderness as some of my treks take me, let's just say they were daily nature forays. Perhaps that's more like what I really did this last weekend.

Wanting to beat the oodles of Michiganders that would be driving up I 75 on Labor Day weekend, I  blew out of town about 8am. Would have preferred to leave earlier, but...had last minute tasks to complete (like paying bills!) and the only timeline I had to stick to today was to meet my guide in St. Ignace at 5:30pm for a sunset paddle in the Straits under the Mackinac Bridge! How exciting!


It was quite hot and muggy, even this early in the morning, but clouds were accumulating on the horizon and I knew that it spelled trouble. Shortly after crossing over the 45th parallel , my cell phone rang. It was Jessie from Woods & Water Eco-Tours. The weather in the Straits was deteriorating rather quickly and the forecast was pretty dim. So, she felt it was best to cancel tonights paddle to err on the side of safety. I agreed that I really preferred NOT to be in a kayak with lightning strikes nearby paddling in a 1-2 foot chop and strong winds. Been there, done that, wasn't a real good time.

An hour south of the Mackinac Bridge, the winds really started to pick up and gust, and the crosswinds would occasionally start to push me into the other lane! Good grief! And, of course, high wind warnings were issued for the bridge crossing. Speed limited to 20mph, hazards on, right lane only, escorts necessary for high profile vehicles, trailers, etc. Sigh. Since I really had no timeline, I decided to stop a bit in Mackinac City to peruse some shops and take a quick potty break...I really did NOT need to be stressed driving across the bridge today in the inclement weather on a full bladder!

I took the following video with my phone near the lakefront near Shepler's Crossing. Just gives you an idea of the winds that were blowing through.



 It was now time to get back into the car, put on my
 big girl pants, say a quick prayer, and grip the steering wheel tightly for the next 5 miles! It actually wasn't as bad as I had thought. I did feel sorry for those pulling trailers, boats and the like. Many of them either were led across single file in a convoy in small groups led by the bridge authority or some had escorts to actually get in and drive their vehicle across. When I was nearly to St. Ignace, I saw one poor sole riding a motorcycle in the opposite direction. He was leaning at about a 50 degree angle INTO the wind just to keep his bike balanced and upright! That to me just did not look like a good time, let alone safe! I'm surprised they let him through.

Whew! Finally, made it across!


I decided to take a few minutes and go to the nice viewing area on the west side of the bridge. This spot usually makes for an awesome spot for photos on a clear day, today, not so much.  
It was so windy, even these Ring-Billed Gulls decided to hunker down and take refuge from the winds!