Scoville Point

Sensing that I was near the end of Stoll Trail I bounded up this last small climb....would this be the end??? or just another "close to the end its a bit further" section..











I could see water on both sides...so I figured this was probably it....










Yep...definitely a point! And I did find a bronze marker honoring Albert Stoll Jr. It said the Albert Stoll Memorial Trail was dedicated to his memory as he was a conservation editor for the Detroit News from 1923 to 1952 and his untiring efforts made it possible for the preservation of Isle Royale as a National Park...Thanks Mr. Stoll!!!

As I got closer to the point I noticed that water from rain or from spray in rough storms would collect in the pockets between the rocks...I didn't seem to notice anything in them...






I was fortunate enough that the father & son I met earlier while picking blueberries also happened to reach Scoville Point about the same time! I asked the son to take my photo...I didn't dare back up any further!

Looking to the east you an definitely see how the lava flowed out and the island was formed.

I stopped for a few more moments as 4 kayakers were rounding Scoville Point...they were definitely experienced and made it look so easy!

It was after 5 and I needed to start heading back...not that I had anywhere to be, but I wanted to make it back to Rock Harbor before the marina closed at 8....I could hear ice cream calling my name!

Stoll Trail

After resting from Lookout Louise I decided to try my luck at going back out to Scoville Point again. I considered it to be good luck as I passed a butterfly and a bee gathering nourishment from this flower.

So forward I went...determined to get finally to Scoville Point 2.3 miles away....crossing roots, stones rocks and overcoming whatever obstacles necessary!





Of course stopping at any and all interesting flowers and fungi! I don't think I have ever seen so many mushrooms either in variety or just in number over my entire life as I did here in just a week! So, it was not uncommon for me to be hiking and just stop! Shortly after this stop after gathering a snack of blueberries I saw what I thought was another mushroom under some plant cover....I bent down for a closer look and lifted up the plant to see it better...it was definitely NOT a mushroom.....

but some sort of animal hide as I carefully pulled it out from under the brush for a closer look! It wasn't a whole animal, but a section of hide, still pliable but clean. After poking at it I left it where it was...but kept wondering... The following day I asked one of the rangers who identified it as a hunk of moose hide! But then all sorts of questions followed..."where did you find this?"..."Stoll Trail"..."EXACTLY WHERE on Stoll Trail"...."???not to far in, maybe 1/2 mile?, after a bunch of rocks and blueberries at the beginning of a shaded area on Rock Harbor side". I'm sure that was super helpful! Perhaps if they had numbered markers every so often that might help. So, apparently they dispatched a ranger to check it out....there might be a downed moose nearby. I checked back later that day but they were unable to locate the hide. Something had most likely already carried it off. This was as close to a moose that I would get on this vacation.

Oh goody, more lichen...

and I found a nice example of concentric lichen on a sunny rock.

Not really sure where exactly Scoville Point was I just kept heading northeast following the water.

Every once in a while the sky would grow dark and clouds sweep over....then the sunshine would poke back through.

The Herring Gull seemed to be telling me to keep going...that I wasn't quite there yet.

Hike...Lookout Louise

After a short and scenic ride on the
MV Sandy, we arrived at the trail head for Lookout Louise. It's rated as a difficult trail due to the steepness of the trail, but the many switchbacks do help the 1 mile climb upward toward the sky! I paused at Hidden Lake to see by chance if I could spot a moose....no such luck, but it was scenic just the same!

There was a large group today, 7 folks on a family reunion trip, 4 ladies from Florida, a hiker bound for Mount Franklin and myself and Andrew the NPS intern. The solo hiker quickly left us in the dust as the rest of us paused frequently to listen to all the tidbits Andrew provided about the flora, fauna and geology of Isle Royale. Today's hike was actually pleasant, the terrain was more to my liking and most of it was shaded! Yay!

Onward and upward we went until we were finally at the summit. WOW! Now this is what I came here to see! This made up for the lack of spectacular views from yesterday! This was my first glimpse at Duncan Bay. I immediately fell in love with the area and someday hope to return to camp and kayak in this area!

This is the view looking westward toward the end of Duncan Bay in the direction of Lane Cove. As I looked to the north/northwest you could vaguely make out land in the distance...Sleeping Giant Provincial Park in Ontario!

I was immensely grateful that the duct tape on my hand held and my wound remained closed so that I could reach this vista! I really longed now to make the 10 mile trek back to Rock Harbor via the Greenstone Trail like I had been planning on doing for months...but I had to be realistic and now with an injury it was not the smartest thing to do....plus I didn't pack a lunch and would have needed a LOT more water..

So, I descended with the original group, minus the 4 that opted to walk back. It was tricky for some going down, so we took our time and that allowed me to stop and examine the plants and flowers at my own pace without holding people up behind me.


Yes, another mushroom....everywhere I looked there were mushrooms!

This hideout was formed by large pieces of rock that tumbled down from above...would make an excellent shelter from a bad storm!



Here I am heading into the darkness of the forest...I wonder what I'll find? Probably just another mushroom..

Passing Hidden Lake again.

Whew, I made it and the tape held :-)

As we motored away, a couple paddling deeper into Tobin harbor in a canoe. How serene!

To Lookout Louise We go...

After patching myself up from the

knife wound...I had to hustle down to the dock so I wouldn't be left behind for the trip across Tobin Harbor to Lookout Louise. But I did stop for a quick moment to check out the American Black Ducks taking a snooze! Nearly every day I have seen them on the beach in Snug Harbor but I hadn't gotten this close before!

We were soon underway with everyone asking questions about my duct taped hand. Derek called me "tough as nails"....personally I would call me stupid as $&*! but maybe he was just trying to be encouraging. I'd come here to see this national park and damn it...a gash in my hand was NOT going to stop me! A big thank you to the inventor of duct tape! Here we are motoring past my lodge...I was on the top floor, 3rd from the left.Thankfully you can't see my sweaty clothes drying in front of the open window!

Within a few minutes we rounded Scoville Point to enter Tobin Harbor. I would hike out to here later today. From the water I could definitely get more of a sense of the geology of the island. The old lava pushing up and sloping toward the water, and continually raising up in stages.

Rounding Scoville Point.

These were my first loons I was able to even get somewhat close enough to photograph. Oh, how I wished I was in a kayak and able to approach them a little closer! I will return someday....after I have mastered kayaking though!

There are many older buildings on the island, leftover from the fishing industry decades ago. I'm not sure how much longer this one will stand! I have a feeling that because of the National Park status that the buildings can only be maintained, not improved...but I'm not sure. On a hike on Passage Island the granddaughter of a previous resident informed me that the structures are now part of the Historic Trust. She was deeded the homestead and still returns every year! How lucky to have spent summers here as a child and still come yearly decades later!

Near the dock were 2 seemingly abandoned canoes, I crossed paths with the owners as they were descending the trail just as we were starting. They had gotten a very early start and were on their way back!

...And It Cuts Like a Knife...DUH!

I will warn those with a weak stomach not to read this entry! For those of you that know me personally.....this will not come as a huge surprise. In preparation for my adventure I needed to get some new equipment and replace a few things that I had either lost or misplaced, or at the time was determined that TSA had confiscated it from my checked luggage on my last vacation. Unable to locate my knife I had to purchase a brand new knife. The selection was either too big or too small...none were just right, so I decided like with all purchases bigger is definitely better, or you will regret it later. So I selected a nice 3" long blade that is 3/4" wide that also has a saw and can opener. Nice attachments I thought.
I was still nursing along a blister on my heel from the profuse sweating on Monday and Thursday morning after awakening and stretching my tight calves for 15 minutes after the long hike yesterday I needed to cut some more moleskin to cover the blister. This is where I learned Rules #2 & 3....always pack a pair of scissors, and never use a knife for what you can do with scissors!
After cutting the appropriate size pieces, I attempted to close the knife. Somehow the blade locked and my right hand kept going and I made a nearly 3/4" long gash on my palm just below the the joint on my middle finger. OUCH! (however that's not the word I used at the time). I found it rather difficult to control the bleeding, even with pressure....that's when I remembered my first aid kit I prepared! Scrub scrub scrub with soap...then douse it with vodka (a patient had told me to always carry a few bottles of "airplane sized" vodka for scrapes and cuts)...I figure I must have severed a nerve because I never flinched from start to finish. Then out came a little packed of powder I purchased years ago at Cabella's to stop bleeding and clot! Tap tap tap...out flowed the powder into the gaping wound, and after applying pressure....it stopped!!! YAY! Now, being that it was at least 1/8 if not 1/4" deep I probably should have sought medical attention and got sutured up....ummmm...no hospital here, its 8am, the ferry wouldn't leave until nearly 3, arrive in Copper Harbor at 6...1 hour drive to Houghton. Too long, it would be too late. I'm sure if it was a really bad situation one could be transported out on a medivac..this wasn't that bad....a ranger could render first aid maybe....but I figured unless they were an expert suturer I'd be better off on my own. So, being all sterilized I put on some gauze and paper tape. Not really too secure...but I had to be at the dock for my 9am trip to Lookout Louise! I had originally planned on hiking back to Rock Harbor via the Greenstone but, after yesterday 10 miles today would be a lot...and with the right hand out of commission...no way, but I still wanted to at least do the 2 mile hike up to the ridge! I did the best I could and when I boarded I had a brainstorm! After explaining to Captain Ron and Derek what I managed to do to myself, I asked for some duct tape! That would allow me to get the edges closer together so they could start to close up and also provide support so the wound wouldn't rip further and I could still manage to wrap my hand around my hiking pole! It worked like a charm! I just had to remember not to lift anything with my right hand so it wouldn't pull on the cut.

Here's the progress 1 week later!
Being prone to infection for the next 3 weeks I followed the twice daily ritual of scrubbing, vodka and antibiotic ointment, gauze and duct tape. This raised lots of interesting questions upon my return to work....oh well...I didn't let it stop me...I just found different ways of doing my usual tasks! And several folks informed me of the benefits of using superglue in situations like this, who knew! I assure you, my first aid kit now contains scissors and super glue! And my knife....I think its defective...a nice man on the island was able to finally close it for me...it took him nearly 10 minutes! And just last week I found my old knife (the one I was sure TSA took) behind my stove!? Anyway, I'm all healed up and as you can see to the left of the arrow there's hardly a scar and my hand functions just fine (sometimes it feels a little tight...probably scar tissue)! I guess I can patch myself up pretty good! Hopefully I will never need the superglue or duct tape to patch myself up again!

The Hike From *&%#....Chippewa Harbor to Moskey Basin

After being treated to a beautiful Isle Royal sunrise and filling up the 'ol tank with pancakes and sausage, I eagerly awaited today's adventure on the MV Sandy. The scheduled route was to take us to the north side of the island to McCargoe Cove...something I was really

looking forward to. However, Mother Nature was still wanting to wreck havoc with the canoe and kayak enthusiasts and Captain Ron assured all 6 hikers that if we went to the north shore it would be a rough ride and there may not be enough room at the rail for all of us. So, we all agreed to follow his suggestion and chart a course to Chippewa Harbor. Sure....but he warned us it would be a longer hike as he would meet us at Moskey Basin. About a 6 mile hike he said....so, I went back to the room to grab more snacks, a wider brimmed hat, rain gear and more water. I figured 3 liters would be plenty. Here we are approaching the inlet of Chippewa Harbor after about an hour of battling some choppy 3 to 4 footers.

Once again I asked Captain Ron if he was sure we would be ok and make it....perhaps I should take the easy way out and stay on the boat I thought...but that would defeat my purpose of going to Isle Royale to hike and experience the back country. I assured him I would keep on pace and not dilly-dally and I would do my best to meet him at the dock in Moskey Basin at 4:30....but implored him to wait if I got behind....I REALLY wasn't prepared to be stranded! He did assure us that Derek would meet us at Lake Richie and escort us the last 2 miles....and if necessary he would search further down the trail...YIKES! I was determined not to be left in the back with the others miles ahead...I would just have to keep up with them! I took one last look at Chippewa Harbor and said a quick prayer to God to just please get me to Moskey Basin before 4:30! And preferably in one piece!

The older couple left their teenager on the boat with Captain Ron (he wasn't really into hiking) and they really set a fast pace....I couldn't keep up. On the way over I was chatting with Tom from Escanaba and Dale from Pennsylvannia. They were behind me and I was alone in the middle....at least if something happened they would stumble across me...maybe...After a few short minutes they caught up to me and we stayed on the same pace..for a few minutes anyway. We hiked quitely as we were determined to see a moose! or wolf. Pretty soon Tom decided to leave Dale and I in the dust...here he is disappearing into the woods. We really thought he was just trying to see what was up ahead...but he never came back to report! Which kind of worried me because Dale had his lunch and water! Lake Richie (the designated lunch spot) was 4.3 miles away!

So Dale and I trudged on...encouraging each other....after stumbling into him a few times (because I was too busy looking for wildlife and not watching where I was going) I asked if I could lead. At least this way I wouldn't annoy him from continuously falling into him...if there was no one in front of me if I fell at least I

wouldn't hurt anyone else! And stumble I did....but when you see the

terrain you will immediately understand! We took frequent but short rest breaks to catch our breath and escape the searing heat of the sun, usually in shady areas. On one of these breaks I saw this White Admiral butterfly and welcomed a little longer rest. And there were thimbleberries also all along the way....I did leave some for those behind me!

I'm not really sure what kind of mushroom this was, "x" marks the spot? Again in one of those lovely shaded areas I looked forward to between the bursts of blistering heat when hiking on the rock!

This is the fruit of the Rosy Twisted-stalk. The dangly purple flowers would have bloomed in June leaving the fruit. Apparently the Ojibwa used this plant to treat coughs!

Another berry I frequently saw was
this one, the Dewberry. Unfortunately it was only after I got home and was trying to identify plants in my photos I learned that it is edible! Rats! Island Life says that its even sweeter! Now I need to go back to sample this one!

After an hour or so on the rugged trail we spotted a canoe portage sign and a lake! "This is it...we're here" screamed Dale (or something to that effect). Trying not to disappoint him I told him that it couldn't be as there was no way I could have walked 4 miles in only 2 hours on this terrain. Just not possible given my last few ventures. I took out my map and compass (something no one else in the group had...Yikes! or a 1st aid kit...I guess its the Girl Scout/packrat in me) and told him we were probably at the southern end of Lake Richie...but its not like there are mileage signs anywhere. I would later find out in a guide book that the trail section that we had just traversed was considered difficult.strenuous....I can vouch that it was. Seriously....and people portage (carry over their head) their canoes over this?! This island needs a psychiatrist! I began to think everyone here including myself needed their head examined for even attempting such difficulties! And yes, the rocky area to the left is not a rock next to the trail...it IS THE TRAIL! My mood was quickly going to pot....I was WAY past whiny! But...I had to keep my spirits up on the outside to rally Dale and the others...if we ever found them! We took advantage of a shady spot for a snack and water break, but I was afraid of sitting too long as I was afraid of my joints seizing up!

More sunny/blazing hot sections awaited us, the elevated wooden walkways at least broke up the monotony and provided a nice walking surface, no tripping here :-) Another hourish later Tom came down the trail to meet us...he'd already been at Lake Richie for a while...and the folks from Iowa approached us from behind! They took a small offshoot at the beginning to Lake Mason and had been behind us all the time....and to think I had been worried. Tom assured us we only had a little bit further to go! And NO ONE had seen a wolf or a moose...and we WERE QUIET! Although once in the brush we did hear something fairly large break a branch....but not heavy enough to be a moose, perhaps a wolf? or maybe even a fox....


FINALLY! I had made it the 4.3 miles to the Lake Richie trailhead! I needed a "I made it" photo! Derek from the boat made it also about the same time too. So all 7 of us now meandered 1/4 mile down to the shore of Lake Richie for lunch!

I guess I was expecting something more scenic or at least a lake full of loons or other waterfowl. But, hey, I had made it 2/3 of the way and was pretty sure I wouldn't be left out in the wilderness by myself!



Again, feeling the need to get up and move, I again took up the middle section, the Iowans had already left, and the 3 guys were still at the lake.

After a few minutes I came across these 3 portaging their canoe to Lake Richie...their 2 buddies had arrived just before I left with theirs. Now from here to Moskey Basin (where they came from) is 2.1 miles! I can't even fathom doing this! They're pretty hard core in my book!

I'm not really sure what this is that I spotted on one of the raised trails...maybe Joe-pye weed but I'm not positive.

At one resting spot I rested long enough for the 3 guys to catch up to me...as we were resting Rolf and Candy happened along...they were out in search of a nearby moose carcass! Rolf easily cruised ahead of us and Candy somehow got caught in between all of us...sensing she was MUCH more fit than any of us, I moved off the trail and shouted back for her to pass us if she liked.....she did....and within a minute she too was out of site. I think Isle Royale would be a great place to drop someone like me off for a few weeks in the back country, the hike out alone would tone and define muscles and burn off unwanted pounds (especially in the heat of summer!). And let me tell you...Rolf and Candy...didn't even break a sweat or gasp for air! Jeesh....I guess that means I better shape up, but at least I wasn't gasping for air...just slow and sweaty (and a little crabby).

So you've heard me gripe and complain about the terrain...well...here's some close ups! Today, at least 50% of the trail was like this or worse, 40% was shaded but tree roots and small embedded rocks criss-crossed the trail, and maybe 10% was board crossings or nice dirt paths. Captain Ron told us

that 1 mile here is like 2 to 2 & 1/2 miles normal places. Funny he forgot to mention that little fact BEFORE I left the boat and started on the trail. But realistically, if he would have said that I would have gave up before I started and stayed on the boat. So, I'm glad he saved that tidbit for later!


And as I walk through the valley of the ferns....

I was alone again...and even though there are no trail intersections, I was still worried about becoming lost! Every 15 minutes I would stop for water and check my map and compass. Then....I would hear the guys behind me....a welcome sound indeed!

This was my first plank over a visible body of water under it...I was super careful not to stumble here! My Minolta is not so fond of water!

...but I did pause to look at the Yellow Pond-Lilies!








YAY! I was on the right path and I started to feel an energy surge now knowing that I was 0.2 miles from the MV Sandy and I had almost 20 minutes to spare! I did a little happy dance to celebrate!

One more marshy area to cross....









At last! The END! I HAD REACHED THE END!!! And Captain Ron hadn't left!

The Sandy and Captain Ron eagerly awaited us 4 stragglers....I was never so excited to see a boat in my life!








Even though I was weary and my joints were screaming...I HAD to stop and have Tom take a victory picture for me. The 6 mileish hike, was actually 6.9 miles and even though I have done 7+ miles in a day before...this was by far THE most challanging hike I have done simply due to the terrain and the isolation. Even though I was beat I will never forget the great feeling of accomplishment I felt at that moment (and still do!)! I DID IT!!!!!!!!!

Moskey Basin was a pretty area and I had wished that I could have explored it more.....another time.....perhaps when I can be considered "hard-core" and can sleep under the stars in a tent in the wildnerness and trek though it for days on end....someday I'll be back....

But for now....I put my feet up and sat on the stern so that the fresh breeze might dry off some of the sweat.

Even the bell bouy tolled to celebrate my accomplishment! All the heat, sweat and muscle & joint aches were worth this feeling that was in my heart!