Moonrise

One wish I had while I was on
Isle Royale was to either see a full moon reflecting on Lake Superior....or the northern lights. Well, preferably both...but that might be asking too much, besides a full moon may light the sky up too much to obscure the aurora unless they were super intense. I was fortunate to at least the the full moon and to have a clear sky at that! The moon rose over Raspberry Island which is less than a mile

across Rock Harbor from the lodge. What a sight it must have been to back country campers on the south side of the island and on inland lakes as well! I had planned on lugging my tripod down the stairs and onto the rocks....but my windows were clean and it worked out real good! So...I set up...took a few shots...lay down for a bit....got up...repeat cycle. Talk about easy!

July 26th was a pretty calm night, temperatures still hovered in the 70's (at least in my room, but it was the top floor) but there was a quiet breeze and it was so easy to drift off to sleep with the sounds of waves crashing onto the rocks below.

Sleep tight!

On to the Trails! Hike to Suzy's Cave

After getting settled into room # 6 overlooking Lake Superior in the Rock Harbor Lodge, I decided it was high time for a hike! I had a good feeling that I would be lucky enough to spot a wolf (population 19) or a moose (appx. 525) OR BOTH today! I based this on the fact that on the way to my room I was welcomed by the warble of a loon, spotted a Gray Jay and red squirrels were abundant. This MUST be a good sign! So I loaded up my pack with all things necessary (Island Life (a nature guide to critters and plants here), spare batteries, sunscreen, bug spray, a few liters of water, snacks...map) and was on my way! I planned on taking it easy...nearly 4 miles was very doable in an afternoon before dinner! So, I set course for Suzy's Cave 1.8 miles away via Rock Harbor trail and returning by Tobin Harbor trail (another 2 miles), easy enough...I thought.

My instincts had been correct...only a few feet onto the "trail" a dragonfly flew about landing on a tree nearby and patiently posing until I could focus in the the camouflaged critter! I don't think I had ever seen one up close like that! All week I found them EVERYWHERE!

True or False: under armour prevents you from sweating....FALSE..you still sweat profusely in 85 degree heat while hiking on basalt (black volcanic rock) that traps the heat and radiates it back to you from below! This was the greatest challenge I faced the whole trip! TOO HOT! At least with that gear it helped to wick it away....it was truly like Florida in the summer...a bit much. But...I had places to see and animals to track...so...I stopped the whining (somewhat), buckled down and marched on! I found myself taking

a lot of photos of mushrooms, fungi and lichens...partly due to interest, but I think more because it was a rarity to find shade and I tried to linger there before going back into the blistering heat. Here's some sort of polypore fungi with some green sprouts of Grandfather's Beard in a nice shady area!

The terrain on Rock Harbor Trail is pretty rugged, I'm not used to hiking on tilted rock, ups and downs and carefully watching my feet every step. I'm certainly glad I had 2 hiking poles...they were a necessity for me! If you click to enlarge the photo you can perhaps get an idea of the terrain...and I felt like I had been going forever, I'd been gone a good hour...did I pass Suzy's Cave? Here it is true back country and there are no "mile markers" to let you know how far you've come, or have left to go. I think that's probably so folks don't get discouraged and give up! Thankfully, there were wooden posts at trail intersections....and some folks headed the other way reassured me that I hadn't missed my crossover.

Butterfly break! I think I've decided that this is a Silver-bordered Fritillary based on the large silver spots on the underside of its wings! I'm glad I didn't delete my blurry images because that was the determining piece of information! Butterflies were within the top 3 abundant critters I saw on Isle Royale!

Same guy on a clover instead of Canadian Hockweed.

Finally! The 0.2 mile path to Suzy's Cave had a great view of Tookers Island.

Legend has it about 100 years ago, Suzy Tooker and her family lived (in the summer) on Tookers Island, one day she was playing on the mainland and a bad storm came up on Superior that prohibited her from canoeing (or maybe swimming) back to the island. So she was forced to take shelter overnight in this cave! Hence the name Suzy's Cave. Not comfortable, but in a bad storm...shelter is shelter!

Once I crossed over to Tobin Harbor Trail, I found it much more to my liking! There were occasional rocky areas, many tree roots, and SHADE! and trails of DIRT! Yipee! And more wildlife! 2 Pileated woodpeckers flew past and hammered on a nearby tree, a few loons were heard. And the highlight was watching a merganser swim with a bunch of youngsters and watching them all haul out onto a little island to rest, and watching "mama" flap wildly and chase off a loon! I couldn't get my eyes out of my binoculars to get the camera on...but was 50-75 yards away and the clarity wouldn't have been great anyway.

Here I am peering out from behind some white cedar & pines onto an island in Tobin Harbor....oh how I wished I had mastered kayaking!

Here's a red-capped mushroom of the
Russula family hiding under some Thimbleberry leaves. I saw a loon splashing about while preening in Tobin Harbor...I was such a sweaty stinky mess that I thought about joining him! But...I stumbled on back to my room for an ice cold shower! Ahhhhh...and clean dry clothes before heading to the Greenstone Grill for some nourishment and Andrew's evening program about the Ojibway and their stories of Minong (their word for Isle Royale) from 100+ years ago! At least I had cooled off a little and was looking forward to a good rest and being lulled to sleep by the sound of waves crashing onto the rocky shore below my open windows!

The Voyage to Isle Royale National Park

So I know what a LOT of you are thinking...where is Isle Royale AND how on earth does she pick her vacation spots?! Well..Isle Royale is a National Park located 50 some miles from Copper Harbor, Michigan (600 miles from home at the top of the finger that juts out into Lake Superior from the UP (Upper Peninsula for all you non-Michiganders),and is actually closer to Ontario(yes I could see it) and Minnesota than Michigan,but somehow a few hundred years ago, we screwed Canada out of it and instead gave them some other useless property from what I recall. I've put the point of my pen on this wonderful postcard I found to depict exactly where I was! As for how I decide...its an art form in itself. A huge goal I have is to visit all the states, provinces, continents, oceans, etc, and I LOVE the national parks, yep need to see all them as well! I prefer less crowded shoulder seasons, and I always look for the path off the beaten trail...not that I don't like things most folks do...I just like to take the path less traveled and see things many miss! Whenever I meet new people (or well traveled friends just back from adventures) I always get the scoop on what to see and do in their area of the world and cool things they have done....and file it away in my travel journal and brain! Then, usually in the winter when I am bored out of my mind....or while mowing the grass, I get distracted and think....hmmm...what about"x", then I go to to AAA and Barnes and Noble for Moon handbooks and start researching and making reservations! About half the enjoyment of my vacation is the research and planning. So, now you know.

Getting back to Isle Royale, after a hearty breakfast at Tamarack in Copper Harbor, I mailed out my postcards and headed down to the Isle Royale Queen IV's dock, actually it was right near my kayaking place. I looked at the 100 foot passenger ferry and thought about the 3 hour voyage across the unknown and thought about the nicknames I had read about..."the Queasy", "barf barge"....I had never been on Lake Superior,but have experienced some bad weather in Lake Huron under sail....I'm a fair weather boater. With any luck, my breakfast would move through my gastrointestinal tract in the normal manner and the water would be calm. The luggage was loaded on TOP of the vessel, I was glad I had arrived early and mine was some of the first on...if it was rough I had visions of luggage being tossed into the lake and sinking....that would certainly suck.

Shortly before 8am we were underway and

Captain Don (a super funny guy) polled all on board(maybe 75ish) to see if we would mind a detour of about 3-5 miles that would make us 15 minutes late arriving to Isle Royale. He announced just ahead was a tall ship (unfortunately not under sail...the crew was in a meeting) on its way to Duluth, Minnesota for a tall ship race of some sort. All aboard were excited at the prospect and yelled full speed ahead! We were now on "island time"! Only a few miles off shore we caught up to the Bounty west of Copper Harbor and Capt. Don interrupted their "meeting" (more likely breakfast) with a loud blast from the horn! I think a sail on a tall ship could be an adventure sometime! The following day I heard from some other visitors one had docked on Isle Royale Sunday night and allowed anyone interested on board....rats...I'm always a day late or need to leave a day early! Bummer.

For a while I continued to hang out on the deck watching Copper Harbor fade away as we motored on into the vastness of Lake Superior. It looked like it would be a fairly decent crossing small, gentle waves of maybe a foot or so. For the next 2 hours, I sat at a table with a couple in their 60's and lay my head down on the table for some well deserved shut-eye. But would wake up every so often just to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Many slept, several played cards, some read...

About 11, I had decided that I had rested enough and I had better check to see if land could be sighted yet....I had full faith in Captain Don...but somewhere deep down I think I just wanted to yell "land ho!". I chickened out....I just kept my mouth shut and impatiently kept lifting my binoculars.

After an eternity it finally came into

view! Here was my first glimpse of the lodge buildings (mine is the far left) where I was to stay as I'm not quite ready for the "full" adventure package yet. I am vowing to return someday to get the full experience and to stay in far in the back country in a tent...but first I need to get a tent and learn some additional skills (like not packing so much).

Here's the Queen (on the next day) going thru the channel to tie up at the dock in Rock Harbor.

Several park employees greeted us at the dock to tie us up, unload all the gear (70# per person max...but they never weighed it...and to think I left behind my Sibley's and water shoes because I thought it would be like Delta!), and lecture us on safety and procedures in the back country. Later I thought about slipping Capt Don a $20 and my car keys to retrieve these items and bring them the following day....but he disappeared into the woods...and I didn't want to hang around until 2:30, I had exploring to do! Wolves and moose to see, and adventures to have!

But first....a lecture from the park

rangers...these were the "real" adventurers who were in for the "full" outdoor experience. My group of outdoorsy but not at night/lodge group only had a dozen or so people and we were done rather quickly.

Then it was off to lunch and to unpack, re-organize, sign up for boat tours to far away sites on the MV Sandy, and head out into the wilderness...until dark that is!

Sunset on Brockway Mountain

After doing some shopping in
Copper Harbor at Traprock Pottery Studio (absolutely fabulous stuff I might add...it was hard to control myself!) I decided to venture to the summit of Brockway Mountain. It was advised to take the drive up the mountain from the Eagle Harbor side as it is more scenic (and gentle sloping too). I arrived, 1337 feet above sea level, to the top to find these great signs explaining the
history of the area as well as fantastic views of Lake Superior and the surrounding wilderness of the Keewenaw! Several town folk also advised me that the top of this mountain is loaded with migrating raptors in the end of April/beginning of May and is quite the event! I'll file that away in the old brain for a spring trip sometime! Alerted by a familiar bird call I did spot a 2 nd year Bald Eagle though soaring up and down in the valley... :-)

This is a northeast view...The town of Copper Harbor is visible, the tiny peninsula above the tree to the left is Porter's Island...and Hunter's Pointe Trail almost connects to it..about dead center on the other side of the inlet where I was kayaking is the Copper Harbor lighthouse!

This eastern facing view shows the typical ridge and valley topography of the Keewenaw. Pretty steep....I didn't quite feel brave enough to stand too close to the crumbly edge!

Lake Superior in the background nearly blended in with the cloud free sunny day! How pleasant!

Feeling hunger pangs (I never really ate a meal today..just snacked while hiking on this and that) and with sunset a few hours away, I decided to descend the steep mountain (in my car of course) to fill my belly with a wonderful steak at the Keewenaw Mountain Lodge and to pay my lodging bill as I would be departing for the ferry to Isle Royale before they opened in the morning.

Dinner was...WONDERFUL! And Old Bessie Blue and I trucked up the steep side of Brockway Mountain to claim my spot to view the sunset. A few dozen other folks also made the trek up, and although the clouds began to come across Lake Michigan...it was still a nice sunset.

Albeit cumbersome...I was glad I had decided to bring along my tripod and remote...that way I could enjoy the moment more. Some folks even brought along blankets and wine....hmmmm...need to remember that next time too!

Perhaps the wine would allow me to actually sit still for once instead of feeling excitement and the need to explore every little angle. But....then I would have missed out on this....

Darkening clouds did prevent me from seeing the sun melt into the horizon.....but...good news.....red sky(well....I think a red sun counts) at night...sailor's delight....I am to cross Lake Superior tomorrow on the Isle Royale Queen IV.....I am hoping for a smooth and quiet crossing....I don't really have a desire to experience Lake Superior's angry side.

Descending in 1st gear down the steep grade, I paused at an overlook in hopes of seeing a great moonrise as the full moon is tomorrow! I was pleasantly surprised to be greeted by fireworks being shot off by the Kilpela family at their annual family reunion (they are the operators of the Queen)! What a party! But....either they didn't shoot off a lot...or I was just too late.

In the distance....the beacon from the Copper Harbor Light swept across the water every 7 seconds if memory serves me correctly. The light no longer comes from the old lighthouse...but instead from a steel tower a hundred or so feet away.

Finally....a peek at the moon!

I had planned to go back to Hunters Pointe to see the moonrise...but this turnout was easier than parking and stumbling 300 feet over rocks and roots to get to my spot I had found earlier in the day....safer too....no skunks, bears....perhaps on Isle Royale I would get my full moon reflecting on the water shot I had been dreaming about....

As I carefully made my way back to Old Bessie Blue in the distance I spotted a freighter on Lake Michigan all lit up! Funny...living near the lake in all my life, I have never seen a freighter at night or like this all lit up! It looked so lonely and vulnerable...all I could think about was the Gordon Lightfoot song about the Edmund Fitzgerald! As it passed behind the trees this was my signal that the day was over and to go rest up as 5:30am would come VERY early!

Hike...Hunter's Pointe Trail

Upon arriving back at the marina in Copper Harbor from the boat ride to the lighthouse, I decided to stay parked, grab more water and some snacks and take a leisurely hike on Hunter's Pointe. It was maybe a 2 mile round-trip hike on this peninsula that extends out into Lake Superior creating the calm harbor area of the town. The same harbor I kayaked in the day before.
I decided to take the trail on the north side out...I found it to be quite pleasant, about 75 to 80, very sunny and nice breeze coming off the lake! The north side consisted of beaches with finely polished stones (had to pocket a few favorites) and was later informed that my favorite red-brown stones are most likely chert. I don't really care...I just like them, I think whenever I get back there I will take a whole jarful! It's not a national park therefore...it's not illegal..I think. Can you see how smooth and shiny they are?!

I can go no further in my boots...I REALLY need to make sandals a must pack item in my day pack! Behind me is Porter's Island, my intended paddling destination the previous day....let me tell you, it was easier to walk! But....next time I will make it on water too!

Taking the south side back with views of Copper Harbor I was hoping for some wildlife...birds, critters...black bear was a possibility (one had been out there a few days ago). Maybe it was just as well to have a quiet uneventful hike, certainly safer!

Lighthouse Climb...Copper Harbor Light

I can't begin to tell you how happy I was to sleep in today until 10am! The kayaking ordeal was simply exhausting! With extra time on my hands I decided to take an excursion to the Copper Harbor Lighthouse on Hays Point, since its only accessible by boat I decided to let someone else do the work and pay $16 for a pleasant 15 minute ride in an old Navy vessel. This particular light was completed in 1886 (the original one was built in 1848 but was either torn down or ?) in response to the increase in loss of life and property secondary to the increased water traffic from the mining industry. In 1919 the light was automated and in 1937 a new steel tower was built and now an electric beacon shines 22 miles out into Lake Superior.

There was a mile or so of nice hiking trails...at one point leading past this anchor of the John Jacob Astor which sunk here is 1844 and which the docent said was the first freighter to sail in Lake Superior and the first also to sink!

Here we have the propeller from the steamer Scotia which in 1884 stuck a reef of Keewenaw point and broke in half! Sounds like navigation by lights was crucial....although poor weather would make any situation worse!

I thought this was a very interesting flower species until the docent advised me that Orange Hockweed is an invasive species.

More rock scrambling to see Copper Harbor Light from waters edge.

The tower was open to climb, but at 16 steps it was roped off with NO admittance. Bummer....I was really interested to see the view from the top! Darn liability policies! You should be able to sign a waiver...or something.

As I hiked along the interpretive trail I paused just in time to see a freighter fairly close...freighters remind me of home:-)

Hiking on the north shore of Hays Point peering out from the shade of a white cedar tree watching others navigate the lichen covered pre-Cambrian basalt. The terrain was rocky with an east to west trend that was a result of the glaciers, but also the slope is tiled northward about 30 degrees. Interesting terrain I thought at the time, little did I know I'd be cursing it in a few days!






This is a very pretty flower that I found to grow in some of the most unusual rocky places, usually singularly, rarely in groups. I saw many of them the previous day in Eagle Harbor. I was informed this is the harebell.

Like I said earlier, the light was erected in response to increased mining activity in the area encouraged by the state of Michigan's first geologist, Douglas Houghton. But 17th century French explorers (and the natives) had been able to see the La Roche Verte (the green rock), or the Chrysocolla vein from a "considerable distance". You can see the blue-green vein of copper silicate and white calcite underwater running north and south between the rocks.

I really didn't want to get my favorite

hiking boots wet so this is as close as I could

get to the copper (green color) without getting wet....I think I need to tie sandals onto my pack for opportunities like this!

And I was introduced to Thimbleberries here too! YUM! I gobbled up the ripe red one just after I took this. Throughout the week I found it difficult to leave some for the hikers behind me!






And also Saskatoon berries!! I thought they were native to Saskatchewan but apparently they go by several names (of which I have forgotten) and we have them also :-)
(The thimbleberries are still my favorite...I'm surprised my fingers weren't permanently stained red from this trip from the juicy berries!)

You would tend to think that Copper Harbor has mountains by this background but it is actually ridge-valley topography as I was informed.
Here comes Capt. Kurt to whisk us back to the marina!